Sourdough explained

Some people don’t like sourdough. They say it’s too sour, too crusty or has large holes that make it difficult to toast or use for sandwiches. However, every loaf made with sourdough is unique, and every baker has their own distinctive style. So, don’t dismiss it just yet!

Customers often ask why we choose to use sourdough at all – or, as we prefer to call it, levain. What is it, what does it taste like and what does it bring to the bread? In my latest blog post, I provide the answers to these questions and more.

What exactly is sourdough or levain?

Levain is a combination of flour, water and time. Over time, the mixture ferments and develops flavour. It is used in all types of doughs as a raising agent and a natural flavour enhancer.   

Why do you make your bread with levain?

Levain brings a whole new level to bread-making and transforms the taste. Bread made with levain has a depth of flavour, a delicious crust and real personality. It also keeps for longer; we find that some of our breads develop more flavour after a day or two.       

Does bread made using levain take longer to develop than yeasted bread?

Typically, yeasted bread takes around four hours to make, whereas our bread (made with levain) needs a night in the fridge to slowly ferment and develop its character. This slow fermentation process makes the bread easier to digest and influences how we make it, giving us a point of difference. We make the bread the day before and bake it in the morning, as close to opening time as possible, for maximum freshness. That’s one of the advantages of a small bakery like ours, where the bread is made on-site. A larger operation will need to bake well in advance, so the bread can cool and settle before it is packed and transported for retail. 

Why do you use levain at all?

If we didn’t use levain, it’s likely our bread would taste bland and uninteresting. While non-levain bread has its place, we believe it wouldn’t be special enough for us to make or sell.

Do you use any yeast in your bread?

We use a small amount of dry yeast in most of our breads to provide some predictability in the baking process.

Does your bread have a sour taste?

No! We keep our levain young and fresh, so it never tastes sour. We use most of it in our daily bread production and refresh it with flour and water the day before we make the dough. This process, along with the type of flour we use, adds a depth of flavour without sourness. It’s more of a tang - a bit like letting a tea bag steep for a while instead of quickly dipping it in and out.

How would you describe the crust of your bread? Is it super chewy? And does the crumb (the inside) have lots of big holes in it?

Some of our breads have more of a crust than others. For example, the outer layer of our tinned loaf is less exposed when it’s baked, which makes the bread softer. None of our breads have big holes in them, though you may occasionally find an unexpected ‘bubble’ in the crumb. That’s the joy of making bread with levain; the loaves each have their own character.

I’ve had sourdough before and didn’t like it. What would be a good bread for me to try?

Not all breads are equal! Just because you’ve tried a sourdough you didn’t enjoy doesn’t mean you won’t like our bread. Bread can be called the same thing, but taste vastly different. As I previously mentioned, many larger companies bake their loaves the day before to manage the volume and transportation process. They will never be as fresh as ours, which are baked on the premises early every morning, reducing the chewiness that people often associate with sourdough.

Also, some “artisan” bakers are after the “perfect loaf”. Their bread will have a thick caramelised crust, big holes and a distinctive sourness, which isn’t to everyone’s taste. We don’t claim to be artisan or craft bakers. As a village bakery, we aren’t interested in following fads or trends for the sake of it. We want to bake the best bread for the people in our community; nothing is more important than that.          

Finally, don’t let supermarket ‘sourdoughs’, or ‘faux sourdough’ as some bakers call it, put you off. More expensive than a ‘regular’ sliced loaf and not much better, these supermarket offerings may look slightly rustic and have a chewier texture, but they still contain more ‘ingredients’ than they should. That’s when using trends to sell a product does more harm than good, and it doesn’t quite compare to a loaf made by your local baker. We prefer bread with soul made by people.

As for which bread you should try, among all the breads we make in a week, there are so many different styles, flavours and textures that I’m confident you’ll find something you’ll like. Our tinned white loaf is very popular - and very soft - and is a great place to start.

We’re also working on other breads to give our customers even more choice, including ‘free of gluten’ and ones made with very specific flours such as spelt, kamut or einkorn. I’m also testing a rice bread (no levain in this one). Keep an eye on social media for updates.

Why is sourdough bread more expensive?

The longer and more labour-intensive process involved in making bread with sourdough or levain tends to justify a higher price. Typically, it takes about three days to make a loaf: one day for developing the levain, another day for making the bread and a third day for baking it. Also, making sourdough bread requires high-quality flours. These flours cost more but provide the right strength for long fermentation and use various milling techniques to enhance the flavour and texture of the bread.

Why have you removed the word sourdough from your signage?

We use levain or sourdough in all our breads, but our signage hasn’t always reflected this.

To make things clearer, more consistent and concise, our signs now focus on the type and size of the bread. For example, you might see a white bloomer or a tinned loaf, a small fougasse or a large fougasse. We hope this change will make it easier for our customers to choose their loaf.